We reached Kathmandu three weeks ago and the first day seemed like heaven compared to crowded and noisy India: Nepal’s capital set among green hills appeared more relaxed, the people cool and friendly and the atmosphere tolerant and laid-back.
But soon we realized that we landed in a tourist trap with hundreds of trekking and travel agents next to each other, predatory touts selling anything from traditional handicrafts to fake tiger balm and hords of well-off Japanese, South Korean and English tourists. Walking the streets is a nightmare due to the absence of sidewalks and thousands of motorbikes driving through narrow roads, brainlessly honking their horns and competing for space with pedestrians. As in any over-touristy place, interactions with locals are a bit frustrating, as it’s hard to meet people who aren’t trying to do business with you. This is definitely no longer the backpackers’ destination it was twenty years ago.
However, we particularly liked two highlights of the valley that seem distinctly timeless, no matter how squeezed by traffic and commercial pressures they might be. The first one is the true historic centre of Nepal – Kathmandu’s bustling old city. Durbar Square and the old Royal Palace, also called Hanuman Dhoka, is packed with ageless temples, narrow alleys and vegetable sellers crowding the intersections.
The second one is the old city of Bhaktapur, the third major town of the valley and in many ways the most medieval. The “City of Devotees” once ruled Nepal, until the king divided its kingdom among his three sons. It appears something like Kathmandu must have been before the modern world arrived. We admired the impressive two main centres and three main squares, red-and-gold pagoda roofs and vibrant courtyards.
