We learned about the ‘loop’ from our guidebooks. It is a round trip (Tha Khaek, Kong Lo Cave, Xao Lak, Thalang, Tha Khaek, appr. 400km) which is done on a motorbike, usually in three days.
Day 1
After renting a 125 cc motorbike we started our loop in rainy and cold weather, putting on all clothes we had brought, and hoping that information about sunny weather on the coming days was correct (it was). Going clockwise on the loop, we first had to kill boring 100km before arriving in a beautiful landscape of limestone mountains. Enjoying the scenery we made it to Kong Lor Village and were offered a ‘Homestay’ with a local family.
Day 2
Waking up with all the animals in the village at about 5 am, we were the first to arrive at stunning Kong Lor Cave, a 7km long tunnel-like cave which goes right through a mountain. It is possible to navigate the cave on longtail boats and taking a local boatman, we had this wonderful experience.
It was hard to get enough from the cave, but eventually we continued on our journey on a beautiful road through the mountains to Xao Lak, which translates into km 20, as it is 20km from the Vietnamese border. The place did not really invite us to stay, so we ventured on in order to find one of the noodle soups at the roadside restaurants we had learned to enjoy so much. Unfortunately, the world seemed to end just after Xao Lak. The road turned in gravel, then into gravel with potholes, then into just potholes, which later on were filled with mud. A very nice ride on a motorcross bike, but quite a challenge with two people and a full backpack on a 125cc. But we enjoyed it a lot (at least I did as I was the driver).
Still we had this food problem, and while driving through one of the few villages along the road, some locals sitting around a few beers invite
d us to join them and have some beer and sticky rice with water buffalo. While language-wise conversation was very difficult, we spent a funny half an hour before moving on. The locals assured us that the worst part of the road was over. They could lie with straight faces, as it now became worse, going up and down hills in the forest. To cut it short, we made it to Thalang just for sunset and had a fresh Beerlao, so everything was perfect.
Day 3
The next morning we continued on better gravel road, as usual passing a lot of friendly children shouting their ‘Sabaidee’, hello, to us. We made quite good speed and had our first real stop -apart from noodle soup breaks- at the Tham Sa Pha In cave, the water of which is said to have magical powers. It was quite small though. Our stop at the Tha Falang lake was supposed to be a nice break with some swimming and sunbathing, but turned out to be rather unpleasant due to millions of flies and the fact that you had to watch your stuff constantly, so at least we had heard. The final cave before our return to Tha Khaek was Tham Xieng Liap, and it was truely great. A wide cave, about 200 meters long, you could climb around on the rocks.
Hi Anabella,
Unfortunately, I don’t know about travel agencies offering tours there, as we preferred to move independently and rented a motorbike to explore the back roads of Laos. Should you want to do the Loop, make sure to stay at the Travel Lodge guesthouse in Tha Khaek. The food is crap, but they have biiiig guestbooks full of tips and advice from people who traveled like we did, it’s kind of an unofficial HQ, where travellers doing the Loop meet, shouldn’t you want to go on your own. They also have a nice fireplace and Mr. Ku who rents good Korean scooters. And don’t miss the homestay in Kong Lor village. It was so authentic. All the best for your trip! E.
Hi! I´m planning a trip to Asia in November and I’m arriving to Thakhek, Laos on December 2nd or 3rd (still need to check for accomodation). I saw on some interesting activities, particularly the Trekking in Phou Hin Poun Protected Area tour and the Journey to Kong Lor Cave. I was wondering if there ir some kind of travel agency that takes you to do the tours or you have to manage yourself.
Thanks